HAPPYOld Cairo Walking Tour: The Hanging Church, Ben Ezra, Amr ibn al-As and the Museum of Civilization
Updated October 2026 · The HAPPYDAYS team
In a small area south of central Cairo you can walk, in a couple of hours, between a Roman fortress, some of Egypt’s oldest churches, a historic synagogue and the first mosque ever built in Egypt and Africa. This is Old Cairo: one of the most rewarding places to explore on foot, and far less crowded than the Pyramids. This guide is a walking route in order, from the metro station to the Museum of Egyptian Civilization.
In short:
- Time: 3–4 hours for the route, plus 2 hours for the Museum of Civilization.
- Getting there: Metro Line 1 to Mar Girgis station; the route starts right outside.
- Tickets: the churches are usually free. The Coptic Museum and the Museum of Civilization are ticketed; prices are on the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities website.
- Dress: modest, covering shoulders and knees, and a headscarf for women in the mosque.
The route step by step
| # | Place | Suggested time |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Babylon Fortress (the Roman towers) | 15 min |
| 2 | The Hanging Church | 30 min |
| 3 | The Coptic Museum | 45–60 min |
| 4 | Church of St George | 15 min |
| 5 | Abu Serga and St Barbara churches | 30 min |
| 6 | Ben Ezra Synagogue | 20 min |
| 7 | Mosque of Amr ibn al-As | 30 min |
| 8 | National Museum of Egyptian Civilization | 2 hours |
1. Babylon Fortress
As you leave Mar Girgis station you will see the remains of the towers of the Roman Babylon Fortress. Old Cairo grew up around this fortress, and parts of the churches were built on its walls.
2. The Hanging Church
Its name comes from being built over the gatehouse of the Roman fortress, as if “suspended” above it. It is one of Egypt’s most famous churches, with remarkable icons and a richly inlaid wooden iconostasis. You reach it by a flight of steps from the street.
3. The Coptic Museum
The world’s largest collection of Coptic art: manuscripts, icons, textiles and carved wood. The building itself is beautiful, with mashrabiya screens and a quiet garden. Allow an hour if you love art and history.
4. Church of St George
A round Greek Orthodox church built on one of the fortress towers, next to the station that bears its name.
5. Abu Serga and St Barbara
Step down into narrow, quiet lanes lined with old churches. Abu Serga (Saints Sergius and Bacchus) is linked to the tradition that the Holy Family rested in the crypt beneath it during their journey through Egypt. St Barbara’s Church is close by.
6. Ben Ezra Synagogue
A historic synagogue, famous worldwide for the “Cairo Geniza”: thousands of old documents and manuscripts found here that tell the story of Jewish life in Egypt and the Mediterranean over many centuries. There is a security check at the entrance, and photography inside may not be allowed.
7. Mosque of Amr ibn al-As
A short walk from the Coptic quarter. The first mosque built in Egypt and Africa, around AD 641–642, and rebuilt many times over the centuries. Its vast courtyard and forest of columns deserve a pause. Take off your shoes at the entrance; women cover their hair.
8. National Museum of Egyptian Civilization
A short taxi ride away. It houses the Royal Mummies Hall and a gallery telling the story of Egyptian civilisation from its beginnings to today. If you visit the same day, leave it for last, and check its hours on the official website, as it has evening opening on some days.
Tips before you go
- Go in the morning: nicer weather and quieter sites. On Sunday mornings the churches hold services, so be respectful if you enter during prayers.
- Ask before taking photos inside the churches and the synagogue.
- Carry small change for donations, toilets and drinks.
- Wear comfortable shoes: old stone floors and narrow lanes.
Where to stay nearby
Old Cairo is close to Downtown, Zamalek and Maadi, and on Metro Line 1. Staying here lets you visit early before the crowds and reach central Cairo easily.
Frequently asked questions
How long do you need in Old Cairo?
3–4 hours for the main route, half a day if you add the Museum of Civilization.
Do the churches charge entry?
The churches are usually free and donations are welcome. The Coptic Museum and the Museum of Civilization charge for tickets.
How do I get to Old Cairo?
The easiest way is Metro Line 1 to Mar Girgis station; the route starts right outside. Or take a taxi or a ride-hailing app.
Can non-Muslims enter the Mosque of Amr ibn al-As?
Yes, visitors are welcome outside prayer times, dressed modestly, with a headscarf for women.
Can I combine Old Cairo and Islamic Cairo in one day?
Yes, if you start early: Old Cairo in the morning, then a taxi to Al-Muizz Street and Khan el-Khalili for the afternoon and evening.